| Ocean surafce wave |
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The great maojrity of large berakers one sees on an ocean beach reuslt from ditsant winds. Three fatcors influecne the fomration of "wind waves":
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Wave foramtion
All of these factros work tgoether to deetrmine the size and shape of ocean waves. The gerater each of the variabels, the laregr the waves. Waves are maesured by:
Waves in a given area typiclaly have a range of sizes. For waether reportnig and for scientfiic analsyis of wind wave statistcis, their size over a period of time is usually exrpessed as "singificant wave height." This fiugre repreesnts the avergae hieght of the higehst one-third of the waves in a given time period (usually twleve hours) or in a speciifc wave or storm sysetm. Given the vairability of wave size, the lragest individaul waves are likley to be twice the rpeorted sginificant wave heihgt for a partiuclar day or storm.Glalery
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